San Franciso Focus
Wine List of the Year - Rubicon
by Karen MacNeil
August 1997
Some people got to Rubicon hoping to spot celebrity owners Robin Williams, Francis Ford Coppola, or Robert De Niro. I go hoping to find sommelier Larry Stone and his wine list.
Rubicon's sensational list is packed with unusual wines that are difficult to find on other lists or even in wine shops. The list opens with nine different Veuve Clicquot champagnes, then proceeds on to Krug selections. Salon "Le Mesnil," and a few-dozen other sparkling wines that would enchant even the most jaded bon vivant. The Chardonnay section reads like a comprehensive textbook. There are, for example, five different vintages of Stony Hill, the first great producer of Chardonnay in California and a brand that is nearly impossible to buy unless you've made it off the waiting list and onto the mailing list.
Rubicon also has in-depth sections on France, Germany, Italy, and Spain (the stellar, small-domaine Burgundies alone are mind-boggling), plus a small stash of wonderful selections from rising-star regions such as Austria.
Whether a wine list is exceptional or merely adequate, an approachable, helpful sommelier can go a long way toward making a dining experience perfect. As sommelier, Stone educates diners as well as creating and managing his list. He brings impressive credentials to the task; he is one of the only Americans who has garnered every top international wine award, including the coveted Master Sommelier title from the English Court of Master Sommeliers.
"Could you choose something for us?" I requested one night recently after I'd ordered the truffled scallop salad and my husband had chosen stuffed quail with polenta and bacon. Stone disappeared down into Rubicon's cramped below-ground cellar, which was once home to Wells Fargo's vaults. A few minutes later, he emerged with Martinelli "Martinelli Vineyard" Pinot Noir 1995, one of the most complex Pinots in California, according to Stone. Maybe it was the earthiness of the truffle dressing or the rich creaminess of the polenta--or maybe it was the earthy, rich creaminess of the wine--but the match was sublime.